So you've got a shiny new motocross graphics kit. Before applying your motocross graphics kit your dirt bike plastics do need to be in a reasonable condition. If there is still sticker residue on your plastics you can remove it with contact cleaner.
Once the residue's removed get some hot soapy water and scrub your dirt bike plastics like they've never been scrubbed before! Now the tricky bit, this will be a lot easier with two sets of hands so try to get someone to help you. With your heat gun first warm your dirt bike plastics up particularly if it's cold where you're working. With a large sticker like a radiator shroud, peel back a small section from the leading edge and fold the backing flat underneath. Now you can stick just the small section to the shroud and lay the sticker flat against the shroud to make sure everything lines up.
If it all looks good peel back a little more of the backing and keep working your way along making sure to squeeze out any air bubbles. Apply a bit of heat as you go, this softens the sticker and makes it easier to stick on curved sections of your plastics. Once the whole sticker is applied, squeeze out any air bubbles and give it a good rub down with a rag while applying a bit more heat, this makes sure it has stuck well. If you find at any point that you have an air bubble that you can't squeeze to the edge, just prick it with a pin and get rid of the air that way.
I once had some motocross graphics made by a guy whose favourite method of applying stickers was to get a spray bottle filled with some soapy water and lightly spray the surface you're applying the sticker to. He would then peel the backing off the sticker completely and put the sticker on. The soapy water is supposed to allow you to slide the sticker into position and then you squeegee the water out from underneath and let it dry.
A new set of dirt bike plastics and some motocross graphics are a cheap way of making your worn bike look almost brand new.
Advice On How To Make The Most Of Your 2010 KX250F
Use MXA’s mods as a guide.
1. Throttle tube: Kawasaki vulcanizes the rubber grip to the throttle body, so it takes the patience of a saint to completely remove the grip. We pitched the throttle tube/grip assembly and installed a $59.95 Sunline aluminum throttle tube. The metal tube is very durable and won’t grenade in the event of a crash.
2. Gearing: Kawasaki missed the boat with the KX250F gearing. In stock trim, the 48-tooth rear sprocket is too tall for all but expert riders. We opted for a Renthal 49-tooth rear sprocket in order to bridge the wide gaps between gears. While at it, we installed a Renthal standard-tooth countershaft sprocket and R1 Works chain.
3. Chain guide: Just like a wood chipper, the chain chews up the lower chain guide on the KX250F. The culprit is the chain guide itself, which doesn’t provide enough clearance for the rear sprocket. We utilized a flashy green T.M. Designworks chain guide.
4. Graphics: The stock KX250F graphics aren’t made out of rice paper, but they might as well be. The life span of the bland-looking stock graphics is as short as a mayfly’s. After a mere few hours of riding, we slapped on the very attractive DeCal Works T-7 semi-custom graphics kit.
5. Exhaust pipe: Does the 2010 KX250F really need an aftermarket exhaust system? No. We chose the $264.95 Pro Circuit T-4 exhaust for two reasons. It improves mid-to-top power and is quieter than the stock exhaust pipe from 5000 rpm on up. Call Pro Circuit at (951) 738-8050.
6. Rear axle nut: Cotter pins are a cheap and advantageous way to keep a bolt from backing out. With that said, the cotter pin found on the KX250F’s rear axle is a nuisance. We round-filed the cotter pin, removed the stock 32mm axle nut and replaced it with a self-locking Honda CRF250 nut. Problem solved.
7. Plastics: Every year, the KX250F is saddled with frail plastic. After just a few rides, we obliterated the radiator shrouds and bent the side panels. Instead of replacing the body work with stock plastic, we used more durable UFO plastic. The UFO kit comes with the front and rear fender, shrouds and side panels.
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